Living in Saudi Arabia

Entry to Mecca and Medina (the two holiest cities of Islam) is strictly forbidden to all non-Muslims though access to the outskirts of Medina (e.g. the Sheraton Hotel) is allowed.

1. The British Government strongly advise all UK nationals going to Saudi Arabia to get to know the difference between UK law and Saudi law and to abide by the laws of Saudi Arabia while they are there.  You will find that Saudi laws and moral standards are considerably stricter than those of the UK and that in certain cases, notably involving dress, drink and moral behaviour, what is not a crime in Britain is treated as a crime in Saudi Arabia.

2. Saudi Arabia is an exclusively Islamic (Muslim) kingdom and Islam governs nearly every aspect of life.  The public practice of any form of religion other than Islam is prohibited in Saudi Arabia.  Severe punishment (imprisonment and deportation) can result should such activities come to the attention of the authorities.  The authorities also stamp firmly on attempts at proselytisation or conversion of Muslims to Christianity.  (However, non-Muslims are free to worship in their own homes).  Entry to Mecca and Medina (the two holiest cities of Islam) is strictly forbidden to all non-Muslims though access to the outskirts of Medina (e.g. the Sheraton Hotel) is allowed.

3. Saudis take their religion very seriously.  Over a billion Muslims throughout the world face Mecca five times daily in prayer and it is a major expression of faith for every Muslim to make the pilgrimage to (Haj) to the shrine (Ka’aba) and other religious sites at Mecca once in his/her lifetime.  The Muslim holy day is Friday; many offices are shut on Thursday as well as Friday, and the working week starts on Saturday.

4. Muslims follow a lunar calendar of 12 months, which is 10 or 11 days shorter than our Gregorian (solar) calendar.  The ninth month of the Muslim year is Ramadhan, when no Muslim must allow anything to pass between his/her lips between sunrise and sunset.  No-one should eat, drink or smoke in public during the fasting hours and strict penalties, including deportation, can be incurred if caught.  The two major public holidays of the year are religious festivals.  Eid al-Fitr lasts for about two weeks and celebrates the end of Ramadhan.  The Eid al-Adha, about two months later, lasts for about 10 days and celebrates the sacrifice during the pilgrimage to Mecca.  (Christmas is not recognised in Saudi Arabia and most expatriates are expected to work on Christmas Day).

Saudi Legal System

5. Laws are based on the Muslim Holy Book, the Quran.  The system is often known as “sharia”.  Punishments for some offences are harsh by British standards.  But the Saudis understand that the ways of non-Muslims are different from their own and they will not generally interfere with what foreigners do quietly, privately and discretely.  But foreigners who take advantage of this to break the law are running serious risks. The Saudis are jealous of their reputation of having a well-ordered society. They will not allow foreigners to put it at risk.

6. British Consular Staff will do what they can to assist UK nationals who are caught disobeying Saudi law.  In most cases this is restricted to giving advice and attempting to ensure that the normal correct Saudi legal processes are followed.  A British Consul cannot save UK nationals from the consequences of their own actions – e.g. the implementation of customary punishment (e.g. lashes for alcohol offences).

7. Murder and sexual immorality such as adultery or homosexual acts carry the death penalty in Saudi Arabia.  So does apostasy (renunciation of the Muslim faith).  The death penalty is carried out in public, usually by beheading.  Serious and/or persistent theft is punished by cutting of the thief’s right hand.  This, too, is done in public, usually in front of the main Mosque after mid-day prayers on Friday.

8. Under sharia law, non-payment of debt is considered a crime, and sufficient reason for imprisonment; imprisonment does not discharge the debt.  It is therefore important both to avoid getting into debt personally and to keep careful accounts of any employer’s funds or goods, which pass through your hands.  You can be held personally responsible for company debts, too, if you are considered the sole company representative in Saudi Arabia.  Experience shows that debt cases are often the most difficult to resolve.

9. Motor insurance, including third party cover, is available in Saudi Arabia.  But it is not compulsory and some Muslims have scruples about the principle of insurance.  An expatriate should not assume that he is covered for third party claims even when he is driving his employer’s vehicle on business: he should check that he is adequately covered.

10. Sentences for alcohol offences range from a few weeks or months imprisonment for consumption to several years for smuggling, manufacturing or distributing alcohol.  Lashes can also be part of the sentence; and a hefty Customs fine if smuggled alcohol is involved.  The authorities also hand out stiff penalties to people found in possession of equipment for making alcohol.

11. The Saudis take a particularly serious view of drug offences.  The death penalty is frequently imposed on drug smugglers, including foreigners, and sometimes also on minor traffickers found guilty on a second or subsequent charge.  Possession of even the smallest quantity can lead to a 2-year prison sentence.

12. Imprisonment in Saudi Arabia is a trying and uncomfortable experience; its purpose is punishment, not rehabilitation.  Prisons are generally overcrowded and, for much of the year, hot.  Exercise, if any, is an occasional privilege.  Visits are allowed regularly, though under difficult conditions.

The Saudi Way of Life

13. The Saudis are dignified and hospitable people.  Work and social life are strictly divided by sex.  Outside the family circle the sexes do not mix at all.  Most Saudi women cover their faces in public.  It is illegal for women to drive.

14. Saudis will not generally be offended by a social mistake stemming from ignorance.  But they still set great store by personal contact and value, much more than we do, the exchange of small favours in their everyday affairs.  Until coffee or tea is poured, no business is discussed at all.  Undue haste to get down to business is taken as a sign of bad manners and ineptitude.

15. Strictly speaking, photography is not permitted in Saudi Arabia.  However, cameras and photographic shops are common and, in practice, you should simply be careful not to photograph anyone without his or her permission; or any building, installation or other place which might offend local sensitivities about security (construed very widely) or privacy.

Travel to Saudi Arabia

16. It is absolutely essential that you have a valid and appropriate visa for Saudi Arabia in your passport before you travel.  You must not try to import any narcotics, alcohol, pork products, religious books and material, obscene literature or videos or literature containing pictures of scantily dressed women.  Everyday pharmaceutical products may well be on the prescribed list of drugs and travellers carrying them even in good faith are liable to detention.  “Coptegon” tablets are specifically banned.

Dress Code

17. There is no absolutely correct dress code for Saudi Arabia: the best way for both men and women to avoid getting into difficulties is to dress conservatively in public.  Most women wear an abaya (black cloak) and some also decide to cover their hair in order to avoid confrontation with the Mutawwa (or religious police) who patrol the suqs (markets) and shopping centres and who often challenge women on this point.  Men should not wear shorts in public.

Health and Medical Facilities

18. There is no major risk or health problems for anyone who is fit on arrival, likes an open air life and takes the usual precautions necessary in any hot climate.  Jizan in south-western Saudi Arabia is potentially malarial and visitors to that area should consider taking a malarial prophylactic.  Except at the period of the Haj when visitors need to show they have had a meningitis vaccination, vaccination certificates are not usually necessary for entry into Saudi Arabia; but, as in most countries, immunisation against TB, polio, hepatitis and tetanus is sensible.

19. Medical facilities in the main centres (Jedda, Riyadh and Dhahran/Dammam/Al Khobar) are good, though not in all respects, and they are expensive.  There are some British doctors working in private clinics or hospitals, several of which are well equipped.  Before you leave the UK, it is wise to find out what your arrangements are for access to hospitals and payment for medical treatment.  If necessary, you should arrange suitable overseas cover with a medical insurance scheme in the UK.

Education

20. In the three main centres, there are international schools offering good National Curriculum education for children up to 14 years; but all usually have waiting lists.  There are also American schools offering education up to 16 years.  School fees in Saudi Arabia are high (currently between £4 - £6,000 per year).
Shopping

21. In the three main centres, there are many supermarkets which carry the full range (with the obvious exceptions) of goods available in western supermarkets.  Shopping malls are full of familiar brand names (Ikea, Habitat, Next, BHS, Harvey Nichols, DKNY, Italian fashion houses).  A wide range of drugs is available without prescription.  Electrical goods are generally much the same price as in the UK; local electricity is 60 cycles (as opposed to 50 cycles in the UK).  CDs are cheaper here (about £9 a disc).  Gold and Oriental carpets are also good value.

Registration

22. If the Embassy or Consulate General at Jedda do not know of your presence they are not well placed to help you.  You are advised on arrival to register with the Embassy or Consulate General,through Locate to keep them informed of any change of address or your departure from the country.